Filed under: Expat life, People, Travel | Tags: Amphawa, anti-government protests, Ayutthaya, backpackers, Bang Saray, Bangkok, Chinese language, conmen, corruption, English, English language, hotels, Isaan, Isaan language, Khao San Road, Krabi, Lao language, Laos, lorry drivers, Malay language, Malaysia, malls, Mandarin, Nightlife, Pattaya, politics, public transport, Rayong, Rungsan Chintanawong, shopping, sightseeing, Suvarnabhumi, Suvarnabhumi airport, taxi drivers, taxis, Thai language, Thailand, tourism, tourists, transport, Trat
“Hey, where you go?” “How much you pay?” “Meter not work.” Phrases that are all-too familiar for anybody who has been to Bangkok, beginning as soon as you leave the arrivals area of the airport and following you all along downtown, around the visitor attractions and surrounding your hotel. Yes, it’s the hawking call of the notorious Bangkok taxi driver.
There are an estimated 60,000 of them in the city, and to be fair, the majority of them are reasonable enough. It’s just the majority of them do not congregate at the airport, the tourist traps, the nightspots, the malls and the big hotels. It is the unscrupulous few who dominate these places, who can spot a freshly arrived holidaymaker at a hundred paces, who can speak enough English to negotiate a con, and who foster the negative image many visitors take home of the corrupt cabbie.
The problem persists because, of course, newcomers to the city don’t know any different, or what the going rates should be. On top of that, even when the prices are ramped up, they’re still usually a fraction of the price that a western holidaymaker would typically pay for an equivalent taxi ride back home. So, even if they’re being overcharged by two or three times, the typical response is “So what?”.
Well, my policy has always been not to reward dishonesty. Of course I too was once a green tourist here and have been stung by taxi drivers, but even if it was only 50 baht here or 100 baht there, I still begrudged it, not because of the money but because of the principle. Why should I pay this man more just because I’m a tourist, just because I’m white, just because I’m staying at this hotel or going to that place, and just because he’s doing his job, for which he is already paid?
Obviously, over time, you get to know the routines. I live in a residential area, not a tourist one, so the drivers around there are fine. Speaking a little Thai shows you’re not fresh off the plane. Even if you know no Thai, simply pronouncing places correctly goes a long way (note to backpackers: it’s not “KO” San Road). In certain areas you simply can’t avoid the conman cabbies, but just consider how many taxis there are at any time or place in Bangkok and remember that if one, or two, or three of them won’t use their meter, you never have to wait more than a minute or so until you find one that will.
Again, 50 or 100 baht is a nominal fee, but I just don’t want it to go to a dishonest person. I like to reward honesty and good manners with my business. Which brings me to Rungsan Chintanawong, my favourite taxi driver; a good natured, helpful, punctual, polite and unceasingly cheerful little old guy who I have used regularly since moving here in 2008.
Rungsan was driving the airport taxi I took the night I arrived when moving to Bangkok. He spoke rudimentary English, enough for getting-to-know-you routines, and told me he also speaks fluent Mandarin, as well as some Lao, Malay and Isaan. He’s a former lorry driver who has been to every province in Thailand, as well as most of the neighbouring countries. As I would learn over time, he knows Bangkok intrinsically, and the rest of Thailand very well. On top of this, he’s never failed to be anything less than happy, polite and enthusiastic. And, crucially, has always been utterly fair.
And so we come back to the point about rewarding honesty. I don’t call Rungsan for around-town travel, but he’s always my first choice for airport runs or for road trips outside Bangkok. I also recommend him to any visitors who want to do similarly, or want a personal driver for city sightseeing.
Consider this. From my place to the airport costs about 300-350 baht on the meter. I always ask Rungsan for the airport run, and always recommend him to visitors flying out. Day hire or trips outside Bangkok are negotiated separately, but Rungsan has charged one of my friends 1,600 baht for a full-day Bangkok sightseeing trip. He has taken my mum and her boyfriend Jamie to Ayutthaya and back for the same price and included a sightseeing itinerary. He has driven them to Trat for 4,000 baht. I have used him several times to go to the likes of Pattaya, Amphawa, Bang Saray, and Ayutthaya, driving only, for about 1,000 baht each. He has taken my dad and I to Rayong and back for 2,000 baht each way. He even took my dad and his wife all the way to Krabi, a journey of some 10 hours, when anti-government protesters shut down the airport in November 2008, at a price of 8,000 baht.
So, all told, Rungsan has made tens of thousands of baht in taxi fares from me and from me recommending him to friends and family. And he will continue to earn well from me. Why? Simply because he is a nice guy who has always treated me fairly.
To his unscrupulous peers who hit tourists for an extra 50-100 baht, I say well done. You’ve made an extra 50-100 baht. Big deal. But you will never see those passengers again. Rungsan recognizes the importance of repeat business, and how to get it, and I’m glad to give it to him.
Honesty pays, even for a Bangkok cabbie.
* For fair taxi prices and cheerful chat, Rungsan can be reached on 0816428048.
Filed under: Culture, Expat life, Health, News, Nightlife, People, politics, Relationships, restaurants, Thai news, Travel | Tags: 7-Eleven, anti-government protests, antibiotics, Bangkok, beach, Beer, Benz Bungalows, Buddhism, children, Chinese, condominiums, crab, diarrhoea, dogs, English language, fast food, food, goats, Gulf of Thailand, Hat Thampang, Hat Thampang Bungalows, hospital, hotels, Hua Hin, Isaan, islands, Ko Sichang, Malee Blue, May 19, monastery, motorbikes, nighclubs, palaces, Pan & David Restaurant, Paree Hut, Pattaya, politics, rabies, Rama V, Red Shirts, restaurants, salad, seafood, shops, Sri Racha, swimming, temples, Thai culture, Thai language, Thai people, Thai politics, Thailand, Travel, tuk-tuks, whale
Thailand’s image needs all the help it can get right now. Last month’s dramatic footage of bomb sites and gun fights across Bangkok played out internationally and many countries have yet to lift their travel warnings to the erstwhile Land of Smiles.
For sure, confidence has been rocked, and even beyond the photos of war on the streets, the reputation of Thai people as gentle, benevolent Buddhists has been tarnished by displays of downright ugly behaviour during such fractious times.
Whether the protesters promising – and almost succeeding – to turn Bangkok into a “sea of fire”, or their opponents cheering and swearing as the death toll neared a hundred, there was precious little positive humanity on display.
I reported on what happened as the army dispersed the Red Shirts last month and, as the situation has calmed, have wondered what I should write about next. I wanted to find something positive to say because, for all the bad news, there are still a lot of good reasons to be here.
But, with the deaths and the gunshots and the smoke still so fresh in the memory, and the vicious verbal invective – likely to, and perhaps designed to, widen the social divisions even further – still being spouted from both sides, what could I say to help restore some dignity to this scarred nation?
Well, travel remains a true pleasure in Thailand, and you’re never far away from tranquil countryside, rich historical sites, pretty coasts or fun smaller cities. Even when the Bangkok crisis peaked on May 19, with dozens of buildings set ablaze and an 8pm curfew locking down the capital, it only took a couple of hours’ drive to Hua Hin and a few days of safety, calm and natural beauty.
Another, less famous, seaside escape within reach of Bangkok is Ko Sichang. I visited there last weekend with my girlfriend, Waew, and it was here that we were reminded of the inherently good nature of Thai people, away from politically volatile Bangkok and the money-hungry types of the famous resort towns.
I had visited Ko Sichang once before, over a year ago, and loved its unspoilt, rural atmosphere. True, the primarily rocky island only has one beach of note, and that is average in Thai terms (although clean and safe), but it is the look and feel of Ko Sichang which encouraged me to return.
The majority of shops and businesses here are family-run, independent affairs. There are no chain hotels, no fast-food joints, no condominiums, no go-go bars, and only one 7-Eleven. It may be too sleepy for some, but sometimes you want a quiet retreat. The houses are old-fashioned and colourful. The people are relaxed. The barnacle-clad port creaks both with age and character and children leap from its heights into the aquamarine depths all day long. Wild goats roam the island, chewing between the rocks, unperturbed by the occasional passing vehicle.
A drive of an hour or so south-east of Bangkok, towards Pattaya, brings you to the town of Sri Racha, from where you catch a boat to Ko Sichang. The ferry ride takes 40 or 50 minutes but is not particularly attractive. Sri Racha is a major industrial town and this, combined with its proximity to Pattaya, makes it a major shipping lane, so the ride to Ko Sichang goes past innumerable rusting old cargo vessels.
However, on disembarkation at the island, its charms become immediately evident. I’d recommend doing as I did and hiring a motorbike if there is only one or two of you. There are tuk-tuks available for transport between port, beach, town and hotels, but no one spot on Ko Sichang is big or developed enough to be worth spending the majority of your time, so riding around and finding your own little places of interest is the order of the day.
Riding off on our newly-commandeered motorbike, we proceeded through narrow streets crammed with shaded old shophouses, into the town area which one could best describe as “Isaan-on-sea”, up the hill which forms the centre of the island, and down towards the opposite coast which is more picturesque and hosts the sole significant beach.
Approaching the beach at Ao Atsadang, a sweeping view of the Gulf of Thailand, unspoilt by the ships and urban landscape facing the other side, is afforded, and as you drive along with barely another vehicle in sight, swathes of greenery uninterrupted by buildings, and the occasional impassive goat, it’s hard to conceive the major urban centres of Bangkok and Pattaya are so close by.
A word of warning: while Ko Sichang is small, and relatively undiscovered, consequently it doesn’t have many choices of accommodation. For sure you won’t be left stranded, but the primest options – beachside at Hat Thampang Bungalows, clifftop at Paree Hut, or the converted palatial ruins at Malee Blue – tend to be fully booked at weekends. We stayed instead at Benz Bungalows in town, which was basic but acceptable, and within walking distance of the deservedly popular Pan & David Restaurant.
A day is plenty to take in the main attractions of the island – the Rama V palace, a temple or three, a Chinese monastery, and a swim – at a leisurely pace, stopping as you please to imbibe the tranquility all around.
Waew and I did just that, ate delicious seafood salad at the beach, and watched the sunset from the western rocks. Well, one thing we didn’t do was swim at Ao Atsadang – at lunchtime, the water was as clean as usual, but when we returned in the late afternoon, it has turned to a dark green sludge. The reason, according to a bartender, was that a whale in the vicinity had suffered an upset stomach!
Already the day had been charming enough – whale diarrhoea or not – but it was the events of the night which would do so much to restore my faith in the Thai character. This country’s natural attractions endure, but a reminder of the qualities of its people was timely.
After dinner, Waew and I went for a stroll through the sleepy town. It was nearing 11pm on a Saturday night but even so, was very quiet. We attracted the attentions of a barking pack of dogs and unfortunately one of them bit Waew. It was just a “warning” bite rather than an all-out attack, but even so, it drew blood and of course was a distressing moment for Waew.
We dashed across the road to a small seafood eatery which was still open, just to ask to use their bathroom so we could clean the wound and then consider what to do next. But they had seen what had happened and no sooner had we crossed over to them than we were piled on to a motorbike with sidecar and whisked immediately to the hospital.
Waew had her wound cleaned and dressed, received rabies shots and was given a course of antibiotics and, some minor pain aside, she was no worse for wear. While she was being attended to, our emergency-response driver, a friendly middle-aged guy called Somphit, kept me company. Between his limited English and my limited Thai, we made a decent-enough fist of it.
When Waew checked out of the ER, Somphit tried to pay the 580-baht bill. Of course, I would not allow it – he had already been such a help in driving us to the hospital and waiting until Waew had finished there. Now he wanted to pay for the treatment too – unbelievable!
Somphit then ran us back to where we had met him and invited us to join him and his friend for beer and grilled crab. The crab was delicious and the beer quickly dispensed with, at which point Somphit dashed off on his motorbike for more.
When that, too, was finished, Somphit said he’d love to stay up later but he had work in the morning, so gave us another ride, back to our hotel. He had refused to take any money for the beer run, so in thanking him I hid a “tip” in my handshake. I at least wanted to show my gratitude not only for the sustenance and the petrol but also for his time and companionship, but he wouldn’t hear of it. “I did it for friendship, not money,” he said, on the verge of taking offence.
Earlier, Somphit had told us he worked as an ice delivery man. That must pay minimum wage, or close to it, and that’s not much in Thailand. He probably takes home a tenth of my salary, and I say that not to boast about myself (indeed, my salary here is some way short of what I’d command in the UK), but to show what a fiscal gap there is between the Thai working and middle classes. He must know this too, and knew of my job, and yet he was willing to pay the hospital bill of a stranger and flat-out refusing any form of recompense for his time and expenditure.
I was so touched, and I couldn’t help but feel that if only the rest of Thailand – and certainly the majority of people in Bangkok – could show such unconditional empathy for their fellow human beings, this country would not be in the mess it is in today.
So, to Ko Sichang, to rural Thailand, and to Somphit – whether he accepts it or not – I toast the kindness of strangers. May such powerful qualities triumph over the negative traits which have hurt Thailand so much in recent months.
Filed under: Culture, Expat life, People | Tags: Bangkok, Bible, bottled water, culture difference, drink, English, English language, food, food court, juice, language, Lost in Translation, mineral water, Minute Maid, orange, orange juice, Sprite, stupid, Thai, Thai language, Thai people, Tower of Babel, translation, water
I’m learning Thai, but my abilities remain limited, so I’d never criticise a Thai person’s attempts at English.
Still, brand names are the same in both languages, and even allowing for phonetic differences, there’s no way you can get them so spectacularly and repeatedly wrong as in the conversation below, unless there’s something spectacularly wrong with the listener. Is there?
I was at the drinks stand of a Bangkok food court. The vendor stood in front of a double glass door fridge. I appraised his wares, and the lingual fun began.
The conversation was a mix of my limited Thai and his limited English, but for simplicity’s sake I have transcribed it in English only. But even allowing for language differences, there’s no way such a simple transaction should have been anywhere near as protracted. Sprite is Sprite, whether in English or Thai, written or spoken.
Me: Sprite, please.
Him: Bottled water?
Me: No, Sprite, please.
(He reaches for a bottle of Minute Maid orange juice.)
Me: No, Sprite.
Him: No have.
Me: Yes, you have (pointing at the Sprite in the fridge).
(He reaches for the orange juice again.)
Me: No, down.
(He reaches two shelves down, passes the Sprite, and goes for the bottled water again.)
Me: No, up.
(He reaches two shelves up and goes for the orange juice again.)
Me: No!
(He looks at me as if I’m stupid.)
Me: Sprite. Suh-prite? Spuh-rite?
(He continues to just look at me.)
Me: There! (Pointing again).
(He reluctantly opens the fridge again and we begin to repeat the up-down routine.)
Me: No, up. No, down. Right. Right. No, go right! Yes! That one!
Him: (Looking at me like I’m really stupid) Oh, you want Sprite.
Me: *Sigh*
(Note: As Thai for “bottled water” is “nam plao” and “orange juice” is “nam som”, there’s no possibly way he could have confused either with “Sprite”, whether in sound or appearance!)
Filed under: Expat life, Health | Tags: Bangkok, Bangkok Christian Hospital, dermatologist, dermatology, doctor, food, food poisoning, Health, hospital, immune system, leg ulcer, NHS, private healthcare, private hospital, pyoderma gangrenosum, Silom, Silom Road, Thailand, tropics, UK, ulcer, United Kingdom

Pyoderma gangrenosum
My health is generally fine. I’ve only taken one day off work since moving here, due to a particularly violent bout of food poisoning. I’ll spare you the details, but on two occasions (the other being on a weekend) I have been rendered utterly housebound by the ill-effects of dodgy food. I guess this comes with the territory when living in the tropics, and twice in less than a year and a half is not bad, really.But I am still trying to resolve a health issue which I brought with me from the UK – a leg ulcer which has been present for two years now. I have a skin disease called pyoderma gangrenosum (PG) and I must be very special, because it affects just 1 in 100,000 people!
It is basically an inappropropriate immune response – the immune system attacks a wound or blemish, but gobbles up good skin, too. This is what creates the ulcer and what continues to prevent it healing. Unfortunately the rarity of the condition means there are not many doctors experienced in dealing with it, and on top of that, the same cure does not work for all sufferers.
Luckily I found a doctor in Bangkok who has dealt with PG before and while progress remains annoyingly slow, progress is being made and my doctor does know his stuff. Thankfully I can afford private healthcare here – no waiting months for an appointment with an NHS specialist, or spending thousands of pounds on a private healthcare membership, as would be the case in the UK! For anyone looking for a decent, affordable private hospital in Bangkok, I recommend the Bangkok Christian Hospital on Silom Road.
But the PG is more an annoyance than a hindrance. It doesn’t usually hurt or itch, and it doesn’t affect my mobility, it’s just there, it’s ugly, it requires dressing, and the unknowns are bothersome – how long will it take to heal? Will it heal? But it could be worse. There are much more virulent diseases, and even PG itself can be much worse than in my case. A 4cm x 4cm wound on the lower leg is not so bad when you see how some others have been affected:
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/f/f1/Pyoderma_gangrenosum_01.jpg
http://www.john-libbey-eurotext.fr/e-docs/00/04/28/3F/texte_alt_jleejd00278_gr1.jpg
http://dermatology.cdlib.org/122/case_reports/penile/1.jpg
Filed under: Culture, Expat life | Tags: Bangkok, Cambridge Language Centre, Chinese, Chinese class, Chinese language, Chinese teachers, English, English class, English language, English teachers, Japanese, Japanese class, Japanese language, Japanese teachers, Phahon Yothin, Thai, Thai class, Thai language, Thai script, Thai teachers, Thailand
I picked up bits and pieces of Thai simply by virtue of living here and going about my daily business, but it wasn’t until January that I started formal classes. I’d struggled to find one that was both affordable and fit into my timetable. However after a few months of searching, I found one almost opposite where I live! For a set annual fee, I can have unlimited lessons and can schedule them as I see fit. I try to go three times a week, but always manage at least once.
I realise I may not be here forever, and that Thai is irrelevant elsewhere, but of course it is valuable within the country. I haven’t reached a great standard but definitely certain aspects of my life are now easier, and I can read Thai script, which is great for monolingual signs and menus.
If anybody is interested in learning Thai, I recommend the school I attend for both price, convenience and format – the classes are informal and fun and conducted by Thais who are fluent in English. It also offers Japanese, Chinese and English classes. Unfortunately it doesn’t have a website, but the contact details are as follows:
Cambridge Language Centre, 8 Phahon Yothin Road Soi 29, Chatuchak, Bangkok 10900. Tel 02 513 4137
Filed under: Expat life, Outside Thailand, Travel | Tags: airport, airport closure, Amphawa, anti-government protests, Asia, Ayutthaya, Bang Saen, Bangkok, Chachoengsao, Expat life, Hua Hin, Ko Chang, Ko Si Chang, Krabi, Pattaya, political unrest, politics, Samut Prakan, Samut Songkhram, Singapore, Sri Racha, Suphan Buri, Suvarnabhumi airport, Thailand, Travel, UK, United Kingdom, working overseas

Ko Chang
The first item on the agenda is to fill in the gaps between September 2008 and September 2009, before I will start writing about more timely stuff, as and when it happens. I will be concise, because 12 months is a long time to chronicle, and will perhaps return to certain points in more detail at a later date.
TRAVEL
Everyone who knows me will know how much I love to travel. The prospect of living and working abroad always excited me, and now I am doing it. I expected that living in Thailand would enable me to jet off to nearby Asian countries frequently, not to mention that Thailand itself is chock-full of attractive destinations.
Alas it has not been so. One side-effect of Maki’s sudden departure was that I was left paying her share of the rent for nine months of the 12-month contract she agreed to. Never mind. My finances are in better shape now. In my first year here, I only managed a couple of days in Singapore for visa purposes and one trip home to the UK. I hope to see a lot more from now on.
I have, however, taken a few domestic trips, although all within convenient reach of Bangkok – Pattaya, Hua Hin, Sri Racha, Ko Si Chang, Ayutthaya, Amphawa, Bang Saen, Ko Chang, Chachoengsao, Samut Prakan and Suphan Buri. My one attempt at a long-distance domestic trip – Krabi – since starting work was thwarted by last year’s occupation of Suvarnabhumi airport by anti-government protesters. Again, I also hope to see more of Thailand this year.
Filed under: Expat life, Thai news, work | Tags: arts, Bangkok, Bangkok Post, business, CV, Database, editing, English language, geography, information technology, IT, lifestyle, News, newspapers, nightshift, politics, Real Time, reporters, sub-editors, technology, Thai, Thai business, Thai language, Thai news, Thai newspapers, Thai politics, Thailand

Bangkok Post
The first item on the agenda is to fill in the gaps between September 2008 and September 2009, before I will start writing about more timely stuff, as and when it happens. I will be concise, because 12 months is a long time to chronicle, and will perhaps return to certain points in more detail at a later date.
I work for the Bangkok Post, the leading English-language newspaper in Thailand. I edit the stories, which are mostly written by Thai reporters. They write in English, to varying standards, but require native speakers to polish their work to native quality. It’s essentially the same role as a sub-editor on any newspaper back home, but with the added task of dealing with non-native English. Sometimes it’s easy, sometimes it’s difficult, but it’s a rewarding job with nice hours on a publication that has a good reputation and a nationwide readership. In that regard, it’s the best job I’ve had so far.
I started out on the national news desk. This is the “front end” of the newspaper and therefore the most prestigious. It was a great start and also an invaluable experience for me in my formative months in Thailand, as it helped me get up to speed on Thai politics, business, geography and so on. It was a nightshift, which a lot of people don’t like, but which suited me because I’m not a morning person! Also it was nice to have the majority of the daytime to myself.
But six months later I was asked if I’d be interested in a move to the features department. The Real Time supplement, which covers arts and lifestyle, and Database, which covers IT, were short-staffed, so I agreed to the move, because while I did enjoy the newsdesk, I figured experience on other sections would further boost my CV. Furthermore, it’s a Monday-Friday role during normal office hours, which means I get normal weekends and evenings off. No, I still don’t like getting up in the mornings, but the upside is that my social schedule now falls in line with most other people’s – including my girlfriend’s.
Filed under: Expat life, Relationships | Tags: affairs, Bangkok, blogs, dating, Expat life, heartbreak, Relationships, single life, stress, Thailand, work

Waew and I
The first item on the agenda is to fill in the gaps between September 2008 and September 2009, before I will start writing about more timely stuff, as and when it happens. I will be concise, because 12 months is a long time to chronicle, and will perhaps return to certain points in more detail at a later date.
I moved to Bangkok in April 2008 with my then-fiancee, Maki. Both of us had work lined up and we used the month or so before starting employment to find a place to live, get a feel for Bangkok and take a couple of trips around Thailand.
Once we settled into working life here, things started to go wrong. Maki’s personality changed and the sweet, polite and considerate girl I wanted to spend the rest of my life with became irritable, selfish and deliberately caustic, and withdrew affection. I put it down to the major life change in moving to a new country, she put it down to stress from her job. The truth came out in August – “stress from the job” actually meant “having an affair with a married man”. A four-month fling put paid to our four-year relationship. She left, I was devastated, and I stopped writing the blog, because I didn’t want to write about a sad subject, and such feelings did consume me at the time.
A year later, I am of course well over Maki. In fact, it only took a few weeks until I started feeling better, which was much quicker than I expected. Bangkok is a really fun place to be single, and I met a lovely girl called Waew last October. At that time I wasn’t yet ready for a new relationship, but we hung out for a couple of months and eventually I took the plunge. It was the right thing to do, as we are still together, nine months later.













