Elephant’s Leg


RUNGSAN AND THE REWARD FOR HONESTY

Rungsan and Jamie

“Hey, where you go?” “How much you pay?” “Meter not work.” Phrases that are all-too familiar for anybody who has been to  Bangkok, beginning as soon as you leave the arrivals area of the airport and following you all along downtown,  around the visitor attractions and surrounding your hotel.  Yes, it’s the hawking call of the notorious Bangkok taxi driver.

There are an estimated 60,000 of them in the city, and to be fair, the majority of them are reasonable enough. It’s just the majority of them do not congregate at the airport, the tourist traps, the nightspots, the malls and the big hotels. It is the unscrupulous few who dominate these places, who can spot a freshly arrived holidaymaker at a hundred paces, who can speak enough English to negotiate a con, and who foster the negative image many visitors take home of the corrupt cabbie.

The problem persists because, of course, newcomers to the city don’t know any different, or what the going rates should be. On top of that, even when the prices are ramped up, they’re still usually a fraction of the price that a western holidaymaker would typically pay for an equivalent taxi ride back home. So, even if they’re being overcharged by two or three times, the typical response is “So what?”.

Well, my policy has always been not to reward dishonesty. Of course I too was once a green tourist here and have been stung by taxi drivers, but even if it was only 50 baht here or 100 baht there, I still begrudged it, not because of the money but because of the principle. Why should I pay this man more just because I’m a tourist, just because I’m white, just because I’m staying at this hotel or going to that place, and just because he’s doing his job, for which he is already paid?

Obviously, over time, you get to know the routines. I live in a residential area, not a tourist one, so the drivers around there are fine. Speaking a little Thai shows you’re not fresh off the plane. Even if you know no Thai, simply pronouncing places correctly goes a long way (note to backpackers: it’s not “KO” San Road). In certain areas you simply can’t avoid the conman cabbies, but just consider how many taxis there are at any time or place in Bangkok and remember that if one, or two, or three of them won’t use their meter, you never have to wait more than a minute or so until you find one that will.

Again, 50 or 100 baht is a nominal fee, but I just don’t want it to go to a dishonest person. I like to reward honesty and good manners with my business. Which brings me to Rungsan Chintanawong, my favourite taxi driver; a good natured, helpful, punctual, polite and unceasingly cheerful little old guy who I have used regularly since moving here in 2008.

With 60,000 taxis operating in Bangkok, there's no reason to give your money to a conman cabbie

Rungsan was driving the airport taxi I took the night I arrived when moving to Bangkok. He spoke rudimentary English, enough for getting-to-know-you routines, and told me he also speaks fluent Mandarin, as well as some Lao, Malay and Isaan. He’s a former lorry driver who has been to every province in Thailand, as well as most of the neighbouring countries. As I would learn over time, he knows Bangkok intrinsically, and the rest of Thailand very well. On top of this, he’s never failed to be anything less than happy, polite and enthusiastic. And, crucially, has always been utterly fair.

And so we come back to the point about rewarding honesty. I don’t call Rungsan for around-town travel, but he’s always my first choice for airport runs or for road trips outside Bangkok. I also recommend him to any visitors who want to do similarly, or want a personal driver for city sightseeing.

Consider this. From my place to the airport costs about 300-350 baht on the meter. I always ask Rungsan for the airport run, and always recommend him to visitors flying out. Day hire or trips outside Bangkok are negotiated separately, but Rungsan has charged one of my friends 1,600 baht for a full-day Bangkok sightseeing trip. He has taken my mum and her boyfriend Jamie to Ayutthaya and back for the same price and included a sightseeing itinerary. He has driven them to Trat for 4,000 baht. I have used him several times to go to the likes of Pattaya, Amphawa, Bang Saray, and Ayutthaya, driving only, for about 1,000 baht each. He has taken my dad and I to Rayong and back for 2,000 baht each way. He even took my dad and his wife all the way to Krabi, a journey of some 10 hours, when anti-government protesters shut down the airport in November 2008, at a price of 8,000 baht.

So, all told, Rungsan has made tens of thousands of baht in taxi fares from me and from me recommending him to friends and family. And he will continue to earn well from me. Why? Simply because he is a nice guy who has always treated me fairly.

To his unscrupulous peers who hit tourists for an extra 50-100 baht, I say well done. You’ve made an extra 50-100 baht. Big deal. But you will never see those passengers again. Rungsan recognizes the importance of repeat business, and how to get it, and I’m glad to give it to him.

Honesty pays, even for a Bangkok cabbie.

* For fair taxi prices and cheerful chat, Rungsan can be reached on 0816428048.



THE THAI SMILE: LOST IN BANGKOK, FOUND IN KO SICHANG

Ko Sichang offers Thai countryside atmosphere and attitudes by the sea

Thailand’s image needs all the help it can get right now. Last month’s dramatic footage of bomb sites and gun fights across Bangkok played out internationally and many countries have yet to lift their travel warnings to the erstwhile Land of Smiles.

For sure, confidence has been rocked, and even beyond the photos of war on the streets, the reputation of Thai people as gentle, benevolent Buddhists has been tarnished by displays of downright ugly behaviour during such fractious times.

Whether the protesters promising – and almost succeeding – to turn Bangkok into a “sea of fire”, or their opponents cheering and swearing as the death toll neared a hundred, there was precious little positive humanity on display.

I reported on what happened as the army dispersed the Red Shirts last month and, as the situation has calmed, have wondered what I should write about next. I wanted to find something positive to say because, for all the bad news, there are still a lot of good reasons to be here.

But, with the deaths and the gunshots and the smoke still so fresh in the memory, and the vicious verbal invective – likely to, and perhaps designed to, widen the social divisions even further – still being spouted from both sides, what could I say to help restore some dignity to this scarred nation?

Well, travel remains a true pleasure in Thailand, and you’re never far away from tranquil countryside, rich historical sites, pretty coasts or fun smaller cities. Even when the Bangkok crisis peaked on May 19, with dozens of buildings set ablaze and an 8pm curfew locking down the capital, it only took a couple of hours’ drive to Hua Hin and a few days of safety, calm and natural beauty.

Another, less famous, seaside escape within reach of Bangkok is Ko Sichang. I visited there last weekend with my girlfriend, Waew, and it was here that we were reminded of the inherently good nature of Thai people, away from politically volatile Bangkok and the money-hungry types of the famous resort towns.

I had visited Ko Sichang once before, over a year ago, and loved its unspoilt, rural atmosphere. True, the primarily rocky island only has one beach of note, and that is average in Thai terms (although clean and safe), but it is the look and feel of Ko Sichang which encouraged me to return.

Local kids play in the harbour

The majority of shops and businesses here are family-run, independent affairs. There are no chain hotels, no fast-food joints, no condominiums, no go-go bars, and only one 7-Eleven. It may be too sleepy for some, but sometimes you want a quiet retreat. The houses are old-fashioned and colourful. The people are relaxed. The barnacle-clad port creaks both with age and character and children leap from its heights into the aquamarine depths all day long. Wild goats roam the island, chewing between the rocks, unperturbed by the occasional passing vehicle.

A drive of an hour or so south-east of Bangkok, towards Pattaya, brings you to the town of Sri Racha, from where you catch a boat to Ko Sichang. The ferry ride takes 40 or 50 minutes but is not particularly attractive. Sri Racha is a major industrial town and this, combined with its proximity to Pattaya, makes it a major shipping lane, so the ride to Ko Sichang goes past innumerable rusting old cargo vessels.

However, on disembarkation at the island, its charms become immediately evident. I’d recommend doing as I did and hiring a motorbike if there is only one or two of you. There are tuk-tuks available for transport between port, beach, town and hotels, but no one spot on Ko Sichang is big or developed enough to be worth spending the majority of your time, so riding around and finding your own little places of interest is the order of the day.

Riding off on our newly-commandeered motorbike, we proceeded through narrow streets crammed with shaded old shophouses, into the town area which one could best describe as “Isaan-on-sea”, up the hill which forms the centre of the island, and down towards the opposite coast which is more picturesque and hosts the sole significant beach.

Approaching the beach at Ao Atsadang, a sweeping view of the Gulf of Thailand, unspoilt by the ships and urban landscape facing the other side, is afforded, and as you drive along with barely another vehicle in sight, swathes of greenery uninterrupted by buildings, and the occasional impassive goat, it’s hard to conceive the major urban centres of Bangkok and Pattaya are so close by.

A word of warning: while Ko Sichang is small, and relatively undiscovered, consequently it doesn’t have many choices of accommodation. For sure you won’t be left stranded, but the primest options – beachside at Hat Thampang Bungalows, clifftop at Paree Hut, or the converted palatial ruins at Malee Blue – tend to be fully booked at weekends. We stayed instead at Benz Bungalows in town, which was basic but acceptable, and within walking distance of the deservedly popular Pan & David Restaurant.

A day is plenty to take in the main attractions of the island – the Rama V palace, a temple or three, a Chinese monastery, and a swim – at a leisurely pace, stopping as you please to imbibe the tranquility all around.

Waew and I did just that, ate delicious seafood salad at the beach, and watched the sunset from the western rocks. Well, one thing we didn’t do was swim at Ao Atsadang – at lunchtime, the water was as clean as usual, but when we returned in the late afternoon, it has turned to a dark green sludge. The reason, according to a bartender, was that a whale in the vicinity had suffered an upset stomach!

Already the day had been charming enough – whale diarrhoea or not – but it was the events of the night which would do so much to restore my faith in the Thai character. This country’s natural attractions endure, but a reminder of the qualities of its people was timely.

Waew all patched up

After dinner, Waew and I went for a stroll through the sleepy town. It was nearing 11pm on a Saturday night but even so, was very quiet. We attracted the attentions of a barking pack of dogs and unfortunately one of them bit Waew. It was just a “warning” bite rather than an all-out attack, but even so, it drew blood and of course was a distressing moment for Waew.

We dashed across the road to a small seafood eatery which was still open, just to ask to use their bathroom so we could clean the wound and then consider what to do next. But they had seen what had happened and no sooner had we crossed over to them than we were piled on to a motorbike with sidecar and whisked immediately to the hospital.

Waew had her wound cleaned and dressed, received rabies shots and was given a course of antibiotics and, some minor pain aside, she was no worse for wear. While she was being attended to, our emergency-response driver, a friendly middle-aged guy called Somphit, kept me company. Between his limited English and my limited Thai, we made a decent-enough fist of it.

When Waew checked out of the ER, Somphit tried to pay the 580-baht bill. Of course, I would not allow it – he had already been such a help in driving us to the hospital and waiting until Waew had finished there. Now he wanted to pay for the treatment too – unbelievable!

Somphit then ran us back to where we had met him and invited us to join him and his friend for beer and grilled crab. The crab was delicious and the beer quickly dispensed with, at which point Somphit dashed off on his motorbike for more.

When that, too, was finished, Somphit said he’d love to stay up later but he had work in the morning, so gave us another ride, back to our hotel. He had refused to take any money for the beer run, so in thanking him I hid a “tip” in my handshake. I at least wanted to show my gratitude not only for the sustenance and the petrol but also for his time and companionship, but he wouldn’t hear of it. “I did it for friendship, not money,” he said, on the verge of taking offence.

Earlier, Somphit had told us he worked as an ice delivery man. That must pay minimum wage, or close to it, and that’s not much in Thailand. He probably takes home a tenth of my salary, and I say that not to boast about myself (indeed, my salary here is some way short of what I’d command in the UK), but to show what a fiscal gap there is between the Thai working  and middle classes. He must know this too, and knew of my job, and yet he was willing to pay the hospital bill of a stranger and flat-out refusing any form of recompense for his time and expenditure.

I was so touched, and I couldn’t help but feel that if only the rest of Thailand – and certainly the majority of people in Bangkok – could show such unconditional empathy for their fellow human beings, this country would not be in the mess it is in today.

So, to Ko Sichang, to rural Thailand, and to Somphit – whether he accepts it or not – I toast the kindness of strangers. May such powerful qualities triumph over the negative traits which have hurt Thailand so much in recent months.



BANG SARAY: 30 MINUTES AND A WORLD AWAY FROM PATTAYA

Pattaya's skyscrapers loom in the background, but it's easy to forget the city while lounging in Bang Saray's clear waters

Talk to any old-timer expat here in Thailand and chances are that, before long, they’ll regale you with tales of when places such as Pattaya and Phuket were quiet fishing villages, and then lament that if only they’d bought land or property back then, they’d be stinking rich now.

Which raises the question of where tomorrow’s Pattaya or Phuket might be, or whether there even remains such potential in a country which is vastly more ensconsced on the tourist map than it was in the 1970s or 80s. Surely anywhere of commercial opportunity will already be long-discovered?

Maybe not. There may well be some places which, while not likely to explode along the lines of Pattaya, Phuket and Ko Samui, could nevertheless still have growth potential.

With this in mind, I headed for the little-known Chon Buri provincial village of Bang Saray, a 30-minute bus ride south of Pattaya, last weekend.

Having never before heard of the place, my interest was piqued when I saw a real estate advertisement selling condominiums off-plan in Bang Saray at a mere 695,000 baht (£13,900). While I’m as-yet unsure as to to the length of my stay in Thailand, that is so cheap that it’s almost worth investing in simply because I can.

The question, though, is what will become of Bang Saray in the future? If I don’t buy one of these condos at such a modest price, and end up staying in Thailand, will I one day be among the number of ageing expats bemoaning the fact that I didn’t get involved before the boom, before the international hotels, the nightclubs and, crucially, the package tourists?

Then again, if I did buy, and nothing happened, I would be the proud owner of a property that wasn’t appreciating, in a village of a low population – and thus few potential tenants – which is too far from my work to commute from.

Bang Saray beach road

Well, first things first, and so to my inaugural visit. Putting aside property musings, the idea of a relatively untouched beach town not far from Bangkok appeals in its own right.

Sure, there are several seaside options close to the city, but most of them are indundated either by foreign tourists (generating prostitution, fast food and dramatically hiked prices), domestic tourists (causing the carpeting of entire beaches with parasols), or both. When I mentioned Bang Saray to expats and locals alike, nobody had heard of it. That was very promising.

The approach road, leading to the beach from the bus stop, featured a handful of guesthouses, mostly independent small shops and a few small bars and eateries. No big hotels, no entertainment strip, no malls and no McDonalds. Good.

To the seaside: the road traversing the coast is quiet, with an occasional family-run shop or restaurant, and only one ramshackle bar, which apparently closes at 8pm. There are even old-style houses directly facing the sea, with families still living in them. Such scenes in Thailand’s developed beach towns are unimaginable.

The beach itself is a little underwhelming. The sand, which is dark but soft, runs in a thin but long strip of, at a guess, a kilometre and a half, and there is shade between the road and the beach provided by rows of palm trees. This thankfully negates the need for the dreaded parasols which obliterate the landscape in so many Thai-oriented seaside towns.

While sitting beneath one of these shady palms, an occasional snack vendor will come along, but they are infrequent and not at all pushy. Again, this is most pleasingly contrary to the typical Thai beach experience. If you want food or drink in between their visits, there are a few small stalls set up along the road.

And now for the highlight of Bang Saray beach – the water. From a distance, it is bright blue and green, and up close, is clean and clear. Swimming is safe and refreshing. How nice to be able to enjoy such a delight so close to Pattaya, where the sea water is notoriously polluted.

You wouldn't catch me doing this in Pattaya

All told, a very pleasant day out, and for someone seeking a beach break from Bangkok that isn’t overrun by tourists, I’d definitely recommend going that little bit further south past Pattaya to Bang Saray.

And what of the future? Well, as a visitor, it would be just fine by me if Bang Saray remains “undiscovered”, as that would mean I’d continue to have the option of a quiet, hassle-free, clean seaside spot near Bangkok.

But if I had an eye on investment, obviously I’d want the village to grow. And will it?

The motorcycle taxi driver who transported me from the bus stop to the beach said he’d already seen modest development in the past few years, and I did see a few advertisements for condominiums dotted around. Have the seeds of tourism and foreign investment been planted?

Certainly the location is very appealing. The total drive from Bangkok is about two hours, and to Pattaya is just 30 minutes. This alone could mean Bang Saray is set for growth, as Pattaya’s neighbour town of Jomtien has benefitted economically simply due to its location beside the exponential growth of “Sin City”. It stands to reason that continued growth would follow the coast, not go inland.

If so, will the Bang Saray of today be unrecognisable in 10 years or so? And whether or not that would be a good thing depends, I suppose, on who’s got a financial stake in the place. While anyone who witnessed the Pattaya or Phuket of old would probably not like what they have turned into, those who own property there will surely be laughing.



RIDING RICKSHAWS IN DAVID CARRADINE’S FOOTSTEPS, CHILD BRIDES IN TOW

Journalism 101: Never let the facts get in the way of a good story

As I work in the press, I’m always quick to defend journalists, especially against the stereotype that they “make things up”.

It is true, though, that facts can be shaped to fit an agenda, and also that whenever there are two or more sides to a story, a journalist can take whichever side best fits his remit. But they can’t simply make things up.

For a start, it’s against the law. If a newspaper prints a story about a person or event, and cannot prove that it is true if required to do so, then it will face penalties.

Take, for example, the 2004 case of the Daily Mirror‘s publication of photos which apparently showed British soldiers abusing an Iraqi captive. Desperate for a sensational scoop, The Mirror didn’t check the authenticity of the pictures, which were later proven to be fake. The result – editor Piers Morgan was fired.

So, a publication really can’t “make things up” without risking personal, political or financial repercussions. However, that’s not to say it never happens. While I may be quick to defend the press against this stereotype, at the same time I am quick to criticise journalists who do contribute to it.

Of course, they’re all out for a good story, and they all dream of that sensational scoop. Fair enough. But if it isn’t there, you shouldn’t force it to be there. Don’t create a sensation where one does not exist, and do not add details that don’t exist for the sake of adding character or credence to the story. In other words, don’t make it up.

So, while I’m often quick to defend journalists, by the same token I believe those who are guilty of passing off fantasies as facts, or who use creative licence to such a degree that they are no longer writing non-fiction, should be named and shamed. 

By all means have a stance, an agenda. We all have our remits and our biases; this is human nature, as well as the nature of the media. But the points used to engender a stance must at least have grounds in reality, or else you risk damaging your own reputation, as well as that of your employer.

"If only one investigative journalist follows my footsteps, then my death won't have been in vain."

When it comes to sensationalism, Bangkok is an easy target. Even people who have never been here will have their opinions about it, right or wrong, mostly formed from the movies and the lurid tales that their friends bring home from their holidays.

Much of it is exaggerated, but not outrageously so. The real Bangkok is variously exotic, steamy, sexy, dangerous, chaotic, cultured, corrupt. The city’s reputation precedes it, and in many ways it is justified. The possibilities for an investigative journalist are endless.

Which makes it all the more unforgiveable when one writes a piece that is so ludicrously overblown, and in which the “facts” are so easily debunked by anyone with even the most passing experience in Bangkok, that it calls into question whether the writer has even visited the city.

The story in question appears here. Note that is not the work of a ranting blogger or an enthusiastic but undertrained freelancer.

No, it is an article published by Maxim, one of the world’s leading glossy men’s magazines, and attributed to a scribe called Mark Ebner, who, apparently “has been covering crime and Hollywood for 20 years”.

The piece is a follow-up on the shadowy death of David Carradine in a Bangkok hotel room last June. (Unfortunately the article was only recently brought to my attention.) Carradine’s passing, whether suicide, murder, or sex games gone wrong, was the ideal backdrop to a piece of investigative reportage from one of the world’s most infamous sin cities.

It could have been done so well. But Ebner apparently visited a Bangkok that, in cultural terms, hasn’t existed since the 70s, and in geographical terms, doesn’t exist at all! His sense of geography makes you wonder if indeed he’d even physically set foot in the city.

The creative licence used to colour his adventures are so far-fetched that an article with such potential loses all credibility – and even if (and I don’t) that could be justified as merely an application of the art, what can’t be forgiven, especially for such a prestigious magazine, are the atrocious geographical errors which riddle the piece, followed by the downright irresponsible reports of child prostitution.

At best, this writer simply wasn’t paying attention when here. At worst, perhaps Ebner didn’t even travel to Bangkok at all.

You can read the full article at Maxim.Com but for your convenience, here are some selected passages.

The Nai Lert Park Hotel, where Carradine met his end - a scene from a sordid sex capital if ever I saw one.

… wasn’t it a little too convenient that such a sordid suicide should take place in Bangkok, the sex capital of the world?

Ebner sets out his stall early. Yes, Bangkok has a deserved reputation for its vice, but sex capital of the world? OK, it’s up there in the rankings, for sure, but even within the same country, Pattaya is by far the more notorious, and within the region Phnom Penh is just as infamous, with a darker tone, too.

I’m not saying the writer is essentially wrong in his description of Bangkok – after all, how would you measure such a thing? – but I have the feeling that if Carradine had died in Amsterdam, the same writer would have applied the same label there.

… a teeth-rattling cab ride through the smog-choked, sweltering squalor of metro Bangkok, dodging rickshaws and limbless sidewalk cripples begging for change.

Teeth-rattling? Bangkok’s – and, in fact, most of Thailand’s - roads are flat and paved and have been for some time.

Squalour? Yes, there are slums in Bangkok, but an average crosstown cab ride doesn’t even come close to them. Large parts of Bangkok are modern and well-maintained.

Dodging rickshaws? Rickshaws? Did Ebner board a time machine rather than a commercial airline, and land in Bangkok 1974 rather than Suvarnabhumi Airport? Hands up anyone who’s seen a rickshaw in modern-day Bangkok. Anyone? OK, in the last decade? Two? Anyone at all? Thought so.

Smog, sweltering temperatures and “limbless cripples” (even though that is an excellent example of tautology, and since he says they were on the sidewalk, why was his cab forced to dodge them?), I’ll give him.  But already we can see the writer is more concerned with painting an atmosphere to suit the story, rather than “follow in Carradine’s footsteps”, as he claims is his mission.

Open-air sex, Patpong market style

A vast open-air sex market, the Patpong is a 20-minute walk from the hotel…

Ebner’s description of his adventures in Bangkok’s red light districts are where he really gets lost. “The” Patpong? Nobody calls it “the” Patpong any more than people call London’s red light district “the” Soho.

A “vast, open-air sex market”? Well, I won’t dispute the “sex market” description, but that side of things is far from open-air. Patpong’s sex – and sale of such – goes on behind the doors of bars and massage parlours, not in the street. True, street walkers do ply their trade in Bangkok, but Patpong’s set-up is primarily indoors. There is an open-air market in Patpong, though – only it sells bootlegged clothes and watches, not sex.

Furthermore, to walk from the Nai Lert Park Hotel to Patpong – and good luck with that, given that one thing the author accurately conveys is the city’s heat and humidity – would probably take over an hour, not a mere 20 minutes.

The Patpong is divided into Soi 4, which is predominantly gay; Soi Cowboy, a note-perfect re-creation of pre-Disney Times Square, designed to cater to the Western tourist; and Nana Plaza, which is where they keep the kink.

OK, now he’s really lost me. For a start, Patpong, Soi Cowboy and Nana Plaza are three entirely different, and distinct, places, all separated by distances that require taxi rides or skytrain/subway runs. There’s no possible way anyone could mistake them being one and the same – unless, perhaps, they hadn’t even set foot in Bangkok and research for the article consisted of Googling “Bangkok red light district”?

Finally, is Nana Plaza really where they “keep the kink”? If so, would those in the know care to share this information with me? (We’ll discuss the kickback later.) Because as far as I can tell, all three red light areas offer much the same fare of standard hostess bars and go-go joints. Now, if women dancing in bikinis or fawning over middle-aged men is “the kink”, then so be it, but personally it takes a bit more than that to shock me.

Typical prostitutes line up outside the Nana Hotel

Looking for answers at the dodgy Nana Hotel, I meet a striking-looking child bride…

This is where Ebner goes beyond mere inaccuracy and enters dangerous irresponsibility. In painting his lurid picture of the supposed world’s sex capital, he couldn’t resist throwing into the mix a predictable dose of paedophilia.

Let me make this clear: in almost two years living in Bangkok, not once have I seen anything that even hinted at child prostitution. Unfortunately there was once a time when Thailand was on the map for such things, but like the author’s experiences with rickshaws, that is something that was left behind decades ago.

Now, I’m not naive enough to think it doesn’t happen somewhere, but the point is that the average tourist is not going to walk into one of Bangkok’s most famous and busiest streets and be propositioned by a child, just like that.

I do not spend a lot of time in Patpong, but I have been there enough times to comment on it, and as said, if I haven’t seen such things in my two years here, I very much doubt this writer would have within a day of arrival.

For the record, while prostitution remains technically illegal in Thailand, it is tolerated and well-regimented, and the working girls in the bars are all 20 and older – and have the ID to prove it. It is more than a bar’s business is worth to break such serious laws.

Thailand has worked hard to cast off its reputation as a child sex destination and this article sets back such efforts. If it was an expose, detailing how such practices continue, then it might have had merit, but coming as it does in the midst of an article strewn with inaccuracies and sensationalism, then we have to take it for what it appears to be: rubbish.

…but for 10,000 baht (roughly $300 in U.S. currency) she will come back to my hotel…

At anything from five to 10 times the going rate, this guy’s Googling hit on the wrong info. Unless he really was here, and was quoted that, which I suppose would be possible if he showed as much cluelessness in his interactions as he does in his writing – Bangkok’s ladies of the night can spot a sucker coming a mile off (or even a “20-minute walk” away).

Mr Ebner, come on, this is not rural North Korea or a far-flung Pacific island. You can’t write wildly fanciful things about the capital city of a country which attracts over a million tourists a year and has a population of eight million people, with a large, English-speaking expat population, and expect to get away with it.

Thankfully the comments added to the article call him to task, but so far neither the man himself nor the commissioning magazine have responded.



A SPRITELY WAY TO GET LOST IN TRANSLATION

The Lord did there confound the ordering of Sprite of all the earth

I’m learning Thai, but my abilities remain limited, so I’d never criticise a Thai person’s attempts at English.

Still, brand names are the same in both languages, and even allowing for phonetic differences, there’s no way you can get them so spectacularly and repeatedly wrong as in the conversation below, unless there’s something spectacularly wrong with the listener. Is there?

I was at the drinks stand of a Bangkok food court. The vendor stood in front of a double glass door fridge. I appraised his wares, and the lingual fun began.

The conversation was a mix of my limited Thai and his limited English, but for simplicity’s sake I have transcribed it in English only. But even allowing for language differences, there’s no way such a simple transaction should have been anywhere near as protracted. Sprite is Sprite, whether in English or Thai, written or spoken.

Me: Sprite, please.

Him: Bottled water?

Me: No, Sprite, please.

(He reaches for a bottle of Minute Maid orange juice.)

Me: No, Sprite.

Him: No have.

Me: Yes, you have (pointing at the Sprite in the fridge).

(He reaches for the orange juice again.)

Me: No, down.

(He reaches two shelves down, passes the Sprite, and goes for the bottled water again.)

Me: No, up.

(He reaches two shelves up and goes for the orange juice again.)

Me: No!

(He looks at me as if I’m stupid.)

Me: Sprite. Suh-prite? Spuh-rite?

(He continues to just look at me.)

Me: There! (Pointing again).

(He reluctantly opens the fridge again and we begin to repeat the up-down routine.)

Me: No, up. No, down. Right. Right. No, go right! Yes! That one!

Him: (Looking at me like I’m really stupid) Oh, you want Sprite.

Me: *Sigh*

(Note: As Thai for “bottled water” is “nam plao” and “orange juice” is “nam som”, there’s no possibly way he could have confused either with “Sprite”, whether in sound or appearance!)



CATCHING UP: HEALTH
pg

Pyoderma gangrenosum

My health is generally fine. I’ve only taken one day off work since moving here, due to a particularly violent bout of food poisoning. I’ll spare you the details, but on two occasions (the other being on a weekend) I have been rendered utterly housebound by the ill-effects of dodgy food. I guess this comes with the territory when living in the tropics, and twice in less than a year and a half is not bad, really.But I am still trying to resolve a health issue which I brought with me from the UK – a leg ulcer which has been present for two years now. I have a skin disease called pyoderma gangrenosum (PG) and I must be very special, because it affects just 1 in 100,000 people!

It is basically an inappropropriate immune response – the immune system attacks a wound or blemish, but gobbles up good skin, too. This is what creates the ulcer and what continues to prevent it healing. Unfortunately the rarity of the condition means there are not many doctors experienced in dealing with it, and on top of that, the same cure does not work for all sufferers.

Luckily I found a doctor in Bangkok who has dealt with PG before and while progress remains annoyingly slow, progress is being made and my doctor does know his stuff. Thankfully I can afford private healthcare here – no waiting months for an appointment with an NHS specialist, or spending thousands of pounds on a private healthcare membership, as would be the case in the UK! For anyone looking for a decent, affordable private hospital in Bangkok, I recommend the Bangkok Christian Hospital on Silom Road.

But the PG is more an annoyance than a hindrance. It doesn’t usually hurt or itch, and it doesn’t affect my mobility, it’s just there, it’s ugly, it requires dressing, and the unknowns are bothersome – how long will it take to heal? Will it heal? But it could be worse. There are much more virulent diseases, and even PG itself can be much worse than in my case. A 4cm x 4cm wound on the lower leg is not so bad when you see how some others have been affected:

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/f/f1/Pyoderma_gangrenosum_01.jpg

http://www.john-libbey-eurotext.fr/e-docs/00/04/28/3F/texte_alt_jleejd00278_gr1.jpg

http://dermatology.cdlib.org/122/case_reports/penile/1.jpg



CATCHING UP: LEARNING THAI

thaiscriptI picked up bits and pieces of Thai simply by virtue of living here and going about my daily business, but it wasn’t until January that I started formal classes. I’d struggled to find one that was both affordable and fit into my timetable. However after a few months of searching, I found one almost opposite where I live! For a set annual fee, I can have unlimited lessons and can schedule them as I see fit. I try to go three times a week, but always manage at least once.

I realise I may not be here forever, and that Thai is irrelevant elsewhere, but of course it is valuable within the country. I haven’t reached a great standard but definitely certain aspects of my life are now easier, and I can read Thai script, which is great for monolingual signs and menus.

If anybody is interested in learning Thai, I recommend the school I attend for both price, convenience and format – the classes are informal and fun and conducted by Thais who are fluent in English. It also offers Japanese, Chinese and English classes. Unfortunately it doesn’t have a website, but the contact details are as follows:

Cambridge Language Centre, 8 Phahon Yothin Road Soi 29, Chatuchak, Bangkok 10900. Tel 02 513 4137



CATCHING UP: TRAVEL
Ko Chang

Ko Chang

The first item on the agenda is to fill in the gaps between September 2008 and September 2009, before I will start writing about more timely stuff, as and when it happens. I will be concise, because 12 months is a long time to chronicle, and will perhaps return to certain points in more detail at a later date.

TRAVEL

Everyone who knows me will know how much I love to travel. The prospect of living and working abroad always excited me, and now I am doing it. I expected that living in Thailand would enable me to jet off to nearby Asian countries frequently, not to mention that Thailand itself is chock-full of attractive destinations.

Alas it has not been so. One side-effect of Maki’s sudden departure was that I was left paying her share of the rent for nine months of the 12-month contract she agreed to. Never mind. My finances are in better shape now. In my first year here, I only managed a couple of days in Singapore for visa purposes and one trip home to the UK. I hope to see a lot more from now on.

I have, however, taken a few domestic trips, although all within convenient reach of Bangkok – Pattaya, Hua Hin, Sri Racha, Ko Si Chang, Ayutthaya, Amphawa, Bang Saen, Ko Chang, Chachoengsao, Samut Prakan and Suphan Buri. My one attempt at a long-distance domestic trip – Krabi – since starting work was thwarted by last year’s occupation of Suvarnabhumi airport by anti-government protesters. Again, I also hope to see more of Thailand this year.



CATCHING UP: PROFESSIONAL LIFE
Bangkok Post

Bangkok Post

The first item on the agenda is to fill in the gaps between September 2008 and September 2009, before I will start writing about more timely stuff, as and when it happens. I will be concise, because 12 months is a long time to chronicle, and will perhaps return to certain points in more detail at a later date.

I work for the Bangkok Post, the leading English-language newspaper in Thailand. I edit the stories, which are mostly written by Thai reporters. They write in English, to varying standards, but require native speakers to polish their work to native quality. It’s essentially the same role as a sub-editor on any newspaper back home, but with the added task of dealing with non-native English. Sometimes it’s easy, sometimes it’s difficult, but it’s a rewarding job with nice hours on a publication that has a good reputation and a nationwide readership. In that regard, it’s the best job I’ve had so far.

I started out on the national news  desk. This is the “front end” of the newspaper and therefore the most prestigious. It was a great start and also an invaluable experience for me in my formative months in Thailand, as it helped me get up to speed on Thai politics, business, geography and so on. It was a nightshift, which a lot of people don’t like, but which suited me because I’m not a morning person! Also it was nice to have the majority of the daytime to myself.

But six months later I was asked if I’d be interested in a move to the features department. The Real Time supplement, which covers arts and lifestyle, and Database, which covers IT, were short-staffed, so I agreed to the move, because while I did enjoy the newsdesk, I figured experience on other sections would further boost my CV. Furthermore, it’s a Monday-Friday role during normal office hours, which means I get normal weekends and evenings off. No, I still don’t like getting up in the mornings, but the upside is that my social schedule now falls in line with most other people’s – including my girlfriend’s.



CATCHING UP: PERSONAL LIFE
Waew and I

Waew and I

The first item on the agenda is to fill in the gaps between September 2008 and September 2009, before I will start writing about more timely stuff, as and when it happens. I will be concise, because 12 months is a long time to chronicle, and will perhaps return to certain points in more detail at a later date.

I moved to Bangkok in April 2008 with my then-fiancee, Maki. Both of us had work lined up and we used the month or so before starting employment to find a place to live, get a feel for Bangkok and take a couple of trips around Thailand.

Once we settled into working life here, things started to go wrong. Maki’s personality changed and the sweet, polite and considerate girl I wanted to spend the rest of my life with became irritable, selfish and deliberately caustic, and withdrew affection. I put it down to the major life change in moving to a new country, she put it down to stress from her job. The truth came out in August – “stress from the job” actually meant “having an affair with a married man”. A four-month fling put paid to our four-year relationship. She left, I was devastated, and I stopped writing the blog, because I didn’t want to write about a sad subject, and such feelings did consume me at the time.

A year later, I am of course well over Maki. In fact, it only took a few weeks until I started feeling better, which was much quicker than I expected. Bangkok is a really fun place to be single, and I met a lovely girl called Waew last October. At that time I wasn’t yet ready for a new relationship, but we hung out for a couple of months and eventually I took the plunge. It was the right thing to do, as we are still together, nine months later.




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